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About Japan
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okinawa:naha
Shuri, once the centre of Okinawa's Ryukyu kingdom is now a part of modern Naha, the city that was declared the capital when the islands became part of Japan in 1879. A splendid reconstruction of the 12th century Shuri Castle is now the main attraction of modern Naha and its distinctive architecture shows the mix of Asian influences that characterises Okinawan culture.

Naha is a vibrant city with pride in its past. Even amongst the department stores and boutiques of Kokusai-dori (International Street), one can see for sale all kinds of Okinawan specialities such lacquerware, textiles, glassware and local, Tsuboya pottery. All these and more can be found stacked to the eaves of the numerous speciality shops of Heiwa-dori. Nearby, the Public Market is an excellent place to get a feel for (and a taste of ) Okinawa's distinctive food culture.

At one end of Heiwa-dori is the Tsuboya pottery quarter where the King of Ryukyu gathered together the finest ceramicists in the land 300 years ago. A healthy number of workshops are still active, producing bowls, plates and sake flasks as well the lucky Shisa lion ornaments that you will see adorning the roofs of houses all over the island.

Using Naha as your base, the area around the city is also worth exploring. One of the most famous attractions is Gyokusendo, a 5km long cave, the largest of in the Orient, the roof of which hangs with thousands of densely packed stalactites formed from coral some 3 million years ago. Also in the area is the Gyokusendo Kingdom Village, a theme park of Ryukyu culture showcasing such local crafts as glass blowing, pottery and awamori brewing as well as local dances.

Sadly, the history of Okinawa has been marked indelibly with the vicious battles of World War Two and the southern area around Naha bears reminders of some of the worst of the fighting. Dug into soft limestone a short bus ride from the centre of Naha are a series of tunnels that served as the centre of command for the Navy during the war. Ultimately, it was also the location for the suicide of 4,000 Japanese servicemen determined not to be captured by the advancing American forces.

But perhaps the strongest reminder of the senselessness of war is the Himeyuri Monument, a memorial to the 219 high school students and 18 teachers who were drafted into the Japanese army as nurses and who died during the Battle of Okinawa. A battle that claimed the lives of a total of 13,000 American soldiers and 250,000 Japanese soldiers and civilians.
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